Communicantes

Français
April - June 2004, No. 19
 

At The Tail, A Tale To Tell

Tide Bound in the Sea-Caves

By Hugh Miller

Hugh Miller, a Scottish geologist and writer,
was born at Cromarty, on the east coast of Scotland, Oct. 10, 1802,
and died at Portobello, near Edinburgh, Dec. 26, 1856.


 
Hugh Miller

IT was on a pleasant spring morning that, with my little curious friend beside me, I stood on the beach opposite the eastern promontory, that, with its stern granite wall, bars access' for ten days out of every fourteen to the wonders of the Doocot, and saw it stretching provokingly out into the green water. It was hard to be disappointed, and the caves so near.

The tide was a low neap; and if we wanted a passage dry-shod, it behooved us to wait for at least a week. But neither of us understood the philosophy of neap tides at that period. I was quite sure I had got round at low water, with my uncles, not a great many days before; and we both inferred, that, if we but succeeded in getting round now, it would be quite a pleasure to wait among the caves inside, until such time as the fall of the tide should lay bare a passage for our return.

A narrow and broken shelf runs along the promontory, on which, by the assistance of the naked feet, it is just possible to creep. We succeeded in scrambling up to it, and then, crawling outward on all-fours-the precipice, as we proceeded, beetling more and more formidable from above, and the water becoming greener and deeper below-we reached the outer point of the promontory; and then doubling the cape on a still narrowing margin-the water, by a reverse process, becoming shallower and less green as we advanced inward-we found the ledge terminating just where, after clearing the sea, it overhung the gravelly beach at an elevation of nearly ten feet.

Down we both dropped, proud of our success: up splashed the rattling gravel as we fell; and for at least the whole coming week-though we were unaware of the extent of our good luck at the time-the marvels of the Doocot Cave might be regarded as solely and exclusively our own. For one short seven days, to borrow emphasis from the phraseology of Carlyle, "they were our own, and no other man's."

The first ten hours were hours of sheer enjoyment. The larger cave proved a mine of marvels; and we found a great deal additional to wonder at on the slopes beneath the precipices, and along the piece of rocky sea-beach in front. We succeeded, by creeping, in discovering dwarf-bushes, that told of the bright influences of the sea-spray; the pale yellow honeysuckle, that we had never seen before save in gardens and shrubberies; and on a deeply shaded slope we detected the sweet-scented wood-roof of the flower-pot and parterre, with its delicate white flowers and pretty verticillate leaves.

There, too, immediately in the opening of the deeper cave, where a small stream came pattering in detached drops from the overbeetling precipice above, like the first drops of a heavy thunder-shower, we found the hot, bitter scurvy-grass, with its minute cruciform flowers, which the great Captain Cook used in his voyages. Above all, there were the caves, with their pigeons, white, variegated, and blue, and their mysterious and gloomy depths, in which plants hardened into stone, and water became marble.

In a short time, we had broken off with our hammers whole pocketfuls of stalactites and petrified moss. There were little pools at the side of the cave, where we could see the work of congelation going on, as at the commencement of an October frost, when the cold north wind but barely ruffles the surface of some mountain pond or sluggish moorland stream, and shows the newly formed needles of ice glistening from the shores into the water. So rapid was the course of deposition, that there were cases in which the sides of the hollows seemed growing almost in proportion as the water rose in them; the springs, lapping over, deposited their minute crystals on the edges, and the reservoirs deepened and became more capacious as their mounds were built up by this curious masonry.

The long, telescopic prospect of the sparkling sea, as viewed from the inner extremity of the cavern, while all around was dark as midnight; the sudden gleam of the seagull, seen for a moment, from the recess', as it flitted past in the sunshine; the black, heaving bulk of the grampus, as it threw up its slender jets of spray, and then, turning downward, displayed its glossy back and vast angular fins; even the pigeons, as they shot whizzing by, one moment scarce visible in the gloom, the next radiant in the light - all acquired a new interest from the peculiarity of the setting in which we saw them. They formed a series of sun-gilt vignettes, framed in jet; and it was long ere we tired of seeing and admiring in them much of the strange and the beautiful.

It did seem rather ominous, however, and perhaps somewhat supernatural to boot, that about an hour after noon, the tide, while yet there was a full fathom of water beneath the brow of the promontory, ceased to fall, and then, after a quarter of an hour's space, began actually to creep upward on the beach. But just hoping that there might be some mistake in the matter, which the evening tide would scarce fail to rectify, we continued to amuse ourselves, and to hope on.

Hour after hour passed, lengthening as the shadows lengthened, and yet the tide still rose. The sun had sunk behind the precipices, and all was gloom along their bases, and double gloom in their caves; but their rugged brows still caught the red glare of evening. The flush rose higher and higher, chased by the shadows; and then, after lingering for a moment on their crests of honeysuckle and juniper, passed away, and the whole became somber and gray.

The sea-gull flapped upward from where he had floated on the ripple, and hied him slowly away to his lodge in his deep-sea stack; the dusky cormorant flitted past, with heavier and more frequent stroke, to his whitened shelf on the precipice; the pigeons came whizzing downward from the uplands and the opposite land, and disappeared amid the gloom of their caves; every creature that had wings made use of them in speeding home-ward; but neither my companion nor myself had any, and there was no possibility of getting home without them.

We made desperate efforts to scale the precipices, and on two several occasions succeeded in reaching midway shelves among the crags, where the falcon and the raven build; but though we had climbed well enough to render our return a matter of bare possibility, there was no possibility whatever of getting farther up. The cliffs had never been scaled, and they were not destined to be scaled now. And so, as the twilight deepened, and the precarious footing became every moment more doubtful and precarious, we had just to give up in despair.

"WOULDN'T care for myself," said the poor little fellow, my companion, bursting into tears; "if it were not for my mother; but what will my mother say?" "Wouldn't care, neither," said I, with a heavy heart; "but it's just back-water, and we'll get out at twelve." We retreated together into one of the shallower and dryer caves; and clearing a little spot of its rough stones, and then groping along the rocks for the dry grass, that in the spring season hangs from them in withered tufts, we formed for ourselves a most uncomfortable bed, and lay down in each other's arms.

For the last few hours, mountainous piles of clouds had been rising, dark and stormy in the cave's sea-mouth; and they had flared portentously in the setting sun, and had worn, with the decline of evening, almost every meteoric tint of anger, from fiery red to a somber, thunderous brown, and from somber brown to doleful black; and we could now at least hear what they portended, though we could no longer see.

The rising wind began to howl mournfully amid the cliffs, and the sea, hitherto so silent, to beat-heavily against the shore, and to boom, like distress-guns, from the recesses of the two deep sea-caves. We could hear, too, the beating rain, now heavier, now lighter, as the gusts swelled or sunk; and the intermittent patter of the streamlet over the deeper cave, now driving against the precipices, now descending heavily on the stones.

Toward midnight the sky cleared, and the wind fell, and the moon, in her last quarter rose, red as a mass of heated iron, out of the sea. We crept down in the uncertain light, over the rough, slippery crags, to ascertain whether the tide had not fallen sufficiently far to yield us a passage; but we found the waves chafing among the rocks, just where the tide-line had rested twelve hours before, and a full fathom of sea enclasping the base of the promontory. A glimmering idea of the real nature of our situation at length crossed my mind. It was not imprisonment for a time to which we had consigned ourselves: it was imprisonment for a week.

There was little comfort in the thought, arising as it did amid the chills and terrors of a dreary midnight; and I looked wistfully on the sea as our only path of escape. There was a vessel crossing the wake of the moon at the time, scarce half a mile from the shore; and, assisted by my companion, I began to shout at the top of my lungs, in the hope of being heard by the sailors. We saw her dim bulk passing slowly across the red, glittering belt of light that had rendered her visible, and then disappearing in the murky blackness; and just as we lost sight of her for ever, we could hear an indistinct sound mingling with the dash of the waves-the shout, in reply, of the startled helmsman.

The vessel, as we afterward learned, was a large stone-lighter, deeply laden, and unfurnished with a boat; nor were her crew at all sure that it would have been safe to attend to the midnight voice from among the rocks, even had they the means of communication with the shore. We waited on and on, however, shouting by turns, and now shouting together, but there was no second reply; and at length losing hope, we groped our way back to our comfortless bed, just as the tide had again turned on the beach, and the waves began to roll upward, higher and higher at every dash.

As the moon rose and brightened, my thoughts and fears became less troublesome, and I had succeeded in dropping as soundly asleep as my companion, when we were both aroused by a loud shout. We started up, and again crept downward among the crags to the shore, and as we reached the sea, the shout was repeated. It was that of at least a dozen harsh voices united. There was a brief pause, followed by another shout; and then two boats, strongly manned, shot round the western promontory, and shouted yet again. The whole town had been alarmed by the intelligence that two little boys had straggled away in the morning to the rocks of the southern Sutor, and had not found their way back.

The precipices had been a scene of frightful accidents from time immemorial, and it was at once inferred that one other sad accident had been added to the number. True, there were cases remembered of people having been tide-bound in the Doocot caves, and not much worse in consequence; but as the caves were inaccessible even during neaps, we could not, it was said, possibly be in them; and the sole remaining ground of hope was, that, as had happened once before, only one of the two had been killed, and that the survivor was lingering among the rocks, afraid to come home. And in this belief, when the moon rose, and the surf fell, the two boats had been fitted out.

It was late in the morning ere we reached Cromarty, but a crowd on the beach awaited our arrival; and there were anxious-looking lights glancing in the window, thick and manifold; nay, such was the interest elicited, that some enormously bad verse, in which the writer described the incident, a few days after, became popular enough to be handed about in manuscript, and read at tea-parties by the elite of the town.

 

Home | Contents


Home | Contact | Mass Centres | Schools | Pilgrimages | Retreats | Precious Blood Residence
District Superior's Ltrs | Superor General's Ltrs | Various
Newsletter | Eucharistic Crusade | Rosary Clarion | For the Clergy | Coast to Coast | Saints | Links